model-railroad-infoguy.com |
50 years of loving trains |
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Painting Track Improves The Appearance
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Here's a comparison of a newly-inserted Peco turnout into a scene where the other rail has been painted.
I usually hand paint the rails with a small brush before ballasting the track. It is a tedious job that I do when I don't feel like starting a more complicated project. You can buy pre-stained ties and mix them in with ties you stain yourself. Sometimes I'll use pre-weathered rail or, if I'm feeling lazy, spray paint the rails and ties after they are in place.
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This is what I did on the free-mo module I'm building. This track has been spray-painted with an initial coat of rail brown. Individual ties will now be repainted by hand with various shades of black, brown and gray. I don't spray-paint track with a can very often because it stinks up the house. I wait until my wife is out. Wear a good mask!
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This is the weathering mix I prefer to use. You can also mix your own with India ink and alcohol. Experiment with a few drops of the India ink mix and gradually darken it until you get the color you want. I keep mine in old jars.
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Below are paints I like to use for painting track and wooden ties.
Tip: Wipe the top of the bottle and use squares of aluminum foil or cling-wrap when you put the cap back on. This will keep the paint sealed and fresh so it will last longer.
The brushes in the photo are used to spread the ballast. The small micro brush is good around switches. Cheap dollar store brushes are fine for painting the sides of the rails.Tip: The cut-off piece of hacksaw blade in a wooden dowel handle is a useful tool for cleaning out HO turnout frogs.
In these next two photos, you'll notice that I've mixed rail sizes.The siding at the back is Code 55. The track on the right at the back is coming off a 3-way Code 70 Shinohara switch. The track in the foreground is Code 100. The ballast on the rear siding is black to distinguish it from the gray ballast on the mainline. Note the acrylic "freight car" on the right in the first picture. This see-through plastic car is from Micro Mark. It helps to locate track problems such as low and high spots or where points and frogs are "picking" the wheels as they roll through. I added some weights on top to help it track better and mimic the NMRA weight standards for a 40-foot boxcar.
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A lot of my track is laid directly on homasote because it hold spikes well. I also use cork, especially on foam. Although I use construction adhesive to glue foam down, I've stopped using it to hold track in place. The first time you need to lift a piece of track you'll understand why. Destroying a turnout you just paid $30 or $40 for will send you looking for a better way. There is a better way. Go to Ballasting tips page.
Go to hand-laying track.
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